Was the error visible somewhere through Console.app? This is a major annoyance for me with Cocoa/AppKit apps that basically have terminal usage secondary.
I think this is a step in the right direction. However, I would've loved if they'd make API keys in MCP a first class citizen versus oauth. It adds so much friction having to implement that in an app, just to get Codex to connect. Sure, for a full blown SaaS, it's OK, just a bunch of libraries to include and a new table to add to your user database, but just a drag if you just want to connect something quick, fast and quite secure.
This! I remember reading 'Cocoa Programming for Mac OS X' by Aaron Hillegass and being fascinated by it. Coming from Java, C, doing some DSP code, web work, Objective C and Cocoa at first seemed just utterly alien and a bit wrong.
Message passing, these loosely coupled 'delegates', a mixture of hardcore C, needing to do memory management but also just passing objects around in the runtime... messy, weird... but in the end the right solution to make flexible but performant software. I learned a lot from it. I should dive into the history of NeXT one day.
Good points. It's just that responsive layouts have not been fixed anywhere. Also on the web, it is way too hard. How often don't you see a box floating over some background photo and then covering the focal point, e.g. the face? Sure, it can be done, but the permutations of testing are simply too large for mere mortals.
Multiple 'artboards' for screen sizes/ratios are the solution, which basically just means swapping out a .nib in Interface Builder. Better to just make it explicit.
I remember this video, from way back. Then, it was impressive, but it also felt logical that machines of that era were able to do it. So it wasn't magic. Just good engineering. Now everything is jank & stutter and my 64GB 25 times more powerful machine just refused to play back a YouTube video in my Safari tab since I have too many windows open.
My iPhone 16 Pro is the jankiest user experience I’ve had on a new iPhone ever. On my Mac the settings app pauses and stutters. Jobs would have thrown things if he ever saw this.
I knew Apple was lost when they dropped the “Home” button, just after spending a $1B to build a Palo Alto headquarters in the shape of the “Home” button.
If you dont believe me… nobody is stopping you from testing various things on the same model?
And if you dont have it already… then what could I possibly say that would motivate you to buy a used one to do the testing to confirm?
Edit: And even on my ipad pro m2 doing literally nothing other than swiping to the app library often causes a visible stutter and lag for hundreds of miliseconds… so if you really think it’s flat out impossible to find consistently slower things on the much more complex macos… idk what to say.
On the contrary, they care enough about facts not to take a random, implausible and unsubstantiated claim at face value. Please don’t resort to Bulverism.
I just don’t care that much either way about what others think if it’s adversarial, even if thousands of HN users come to this comment chain to opine about this or that macbook model.
If you mean my claim that some team in Apple already knows about it, there’s literally no way to prove that to passing readers.
That’s exactly the point. Why would you expect others to even entertain a vague claim like that if you give them no reason to find it plausible? “Just test it yourself” (test what?) i.e. “prove me right yourself” is not going to be very successful.
… Or perhaps I too would be interested to know what you allege is faster on your 2019 MacBook? Or was it only ever meant as “random noise opining” and nothing more?
The regulations are great, in theory. In practice, I've noticed that implementation of the technologies are lacking. So on paper, lane keeping will keep you on the road when distracted. In practice, it does not. You'll be beeped at a million times, though.
I have two vehicles with lane keeping (a 2017 Chrysler and a 2025 Ford). Both of them work quite well. The system in the Chrysler will nudge you back if you drift outside of your lane, while the system in the Ford will do that plus automatically stay centered in the lane when cruise control is active.
I have driven vehicles that have lane departure warnings without lane keeping, and they're much less useful.
Maybe I drive more defensively than most but I almost never drive in the center of the lane unless I am in a ‘middle’ lane with lanes on either side. I drive with my tire riding the correct side of the solid line demarcating the shoulder, people (especially pickups hauling trailers, pro semi drivers are usually good) are really bad at staying in their lanes so I sometimes drive onto the shoulder to prevent an accident in the case of another driver lane drifting and overcorrecting.
I typically stay in the middle of the lane, but will drift to one side when I'm passing a vehicle that is wider or potentially erratic. I've never noticed lane-keeping fighting me when there's a car next to me; I wonder if they use the blind spot sensors to detect when to give some leeway in these situations.
Generally the cars with better lane warning/centering use camera or radar to see other vehicles.
We have been moving from pretty crude centering, to adaptive based on other vehicles, to intelligent enough to avoid potholes and cross lane markings deliberately (eg, passing a cyclist on an empty road).
The problem is all these options exist simultaneously, with the same marketing, and same ancap bonus points; even when the actual capability of the car varies massively.
Two Toyotas. The steering you apply, even with almost no torque, always overrides lane keeping. Super dangerous. No beeps when that happens. Whereas with my Tesla you’d have to force it out of autopilot. Or fight a bit back if the car corrects you for safety.
That's the trouble with automating cars - being quite accurate is not really that great over 100k miles. On Tesla's specifically I find the "hands on wheel" attention detection a bit iffy.
For FSD, at least in the US they long dropped the hands on the wheel thing, unless the attention monitoring isn't functioning. At least the folks I know that have it, they absolutely love it.
The current docs still say issues with the camera detection results in the hands on wheel prompts https://www.tesla.com/ownersmanual/2017_2023_model3/en_us/GU... but yes, it was nice when they removed the requirement to have the hands on the wheel even when the camera was working right.
I liked the Tesla progress & road trips but my real bar for joy is the Waymo style promise/start of delivery. There's no fallback to wait for improvement there, either it does everything it promises or it doesn't do anything!
It varies so much by brand, too. Some brands are too aggressive and end up ping-ponging you in the lane if you let them, and then there's my new Mazda where it doesn't seem to work in any case where I want it to work, but will fight me as hard as it can if I try to take a highway exit.
lane assist is fundamentally an unsolvable problem with just a cheap camera, it's in the same category as autonomous driving, that's what these stupid legislation do not get.
Anybody who drove in a construction area with messed up / duplicated lanes can attest how this kind of software stuggles.
Even in perfectly normal, common situations it fails horribly. The bottom stretch of the road I live on is about 2.5 cars wide, but one side is reserved for parking (it’s terraced housing so no off-street parking). That leaves 1.5 cars of width, so if you’re driving on the side with parked cars you give way and pass on the other side when there is nothing oncoming.
Before I turned it off, my car would regularly beep frantically and try to steer me into the parked cars. Thankfully it’s a 2022 model so now I’ve turned it off, it stays off.
It seems like you are being downvoted but I've had the exact issue you mention where there is heavy over-banding on the road surface. Or where you try to move out to overtake a cyclist and it decides to correct you back into lane.
Every installed PV-panel is a dozen barrels of oil (eq.) less CO2 in the atmosphere. Plus, so much fun to generate your own power! Can highly recommend it, even starting small.
It's addictive though. Living in the center of the city (The Hague, NL), with a home battery, I'm now 100% self-sufficient electrically for 10 months of the year.
Hey jstsch, would you mind answering some questions?
- Did you need/use an electrician to set this up?
- How much KWh capacity do your batteries have?
- What about fire safety? Did you install outside, or inside?
- I assume dec/jan are the months you're not fully self-sufficient, are you allowed to charge from grid to do arbitrage over time, or is that another can of worms?
Set it up myself, mostly. Some specific tasks like bringing three-phase power to the garage and hooking up the breaker box I did with an electrician. But installing an additional circuit inside the breaker box, or putting new conduit up, is easy to do safely yourself. Pre-wired breaker boxes can be configured online and are cheap.
The battery is 16kWh. Effectively around 14kWh, since you never fully discharge. LiFePo4, so no chance of spontaneous combustion like other battery chemistries.
I'd say the months Nov→Feb are tricky, although since I have quite a bit of excess solar capacity there are even in December plenty of days where the battery pulls me through the night.
Charging/discharging from/to the grid is possible, since I have a retrofit inverter (AC to battery), but not doing it yet, have to do a bit more research (dynamic pricing, tax is >50% of the kWh price in NL, etc).
> But installing an additional circuit inside the breaker box, or putting new conduit up, is easy to do safely yourself.
UK specific note: note that since the changes in 2013 under the ""Part P"" building regulations, almost all electrical work other than trivial replacement is illegal to DIY. Additionally, renewables work requires extra MCS certification.
Which is why balcony solar is a good deal, it requires none of that.
Its estimated that a PV panel is co2 neutral aver 2 years.
And the great thing is: this is only if the panel was produced with fossil fuels. So due to increase in green energy everywere, this number goes down too and a PV can easily be used for 15 years and after. After that it might just be more economicly to reinvest in a new set of PV panels while the old ones can be sold and used somewere else.
About 1/10 or so of the output of the panel, e.g. 1 barrel of input energy making and transporting panels saves 10 barrels in fossil fuel energy. That's a rough number assuming a particular mix of oil based energy and no energy cost to procuring the fossil fuels used in the comparison.
Long time ago when Siemens in Germany was still building nuclear power plants, I was working in the nuclear power plant engineering department. After the year 2022 when the Russia invaded Ukraine, the gas shortages and the following costs hikes renewed my interest energy sector. Why didn't German reverse it's anti-nuclear stance, even with war in Europe?
Was is the general lack of knowledge of physical, technological and economical aspects of energy, both in German population and decision makers?
The political aspect became clearer after reading "Akte Atomausstieg" by Daniel Gräber.
I think solar and wind are interesting technologies, (solar almost magical - turning photons of light inside thin layer of doped silicon into electrons) but by itself insufficient to power modern world. They are intermittent, weather dependent and low density. Yes the sun and wind come free from Sun, the machines that convert the energy, store it and distribute it are not. Minerals have to be mined, machines build, transported, installed and then disposed off.
Recommended reading:
"Sustainable Energy – Without the Hot Air" by Sir David John Cameron MacKay
There are still big hydrocarbon reserves, gas/oil for atleast 100 years, coal 200 years, at current consumption rates. I fear that, if we don't use the only carbon free high density energy source and cling our hopes to the mirage of renewables, we will transform our atmosphere to hell.
When even the oil and gas giants advertise for renewables, you know that renewables will never replace fossil fuels.
The real question is "why are nukemen so desperately against renewables (and therefore by default in favor of fossil fuels)?" The all-nuclear future had its moment in the sun in the 70s and has been comprehensively lapped. Only France came close.
> the machines that convert the energy, store it and distribute it are not. Minerals have to be mined, machines build, transported, installed and then disposed off
This is of course also a valid argument against nuclear power.
I dislike ‘energy religion’. Nuclear is necessary for Europe. We simply can’t heat our homes and power our industry with renewables in winter. At the same time wind and pv can be built up faster and is simply cheap. Hydro where topography and local bio conditions allow it. We need all those technologies, so we can move away from fossil (climate, resilience and depletion).
On your map, let's say the source is valid, UK has $0.4.
I'm from CZ, we have $0.35.
UK has more than double median salary, DOUBLE. Which means that in some cities it will be actually more like 2x or 3x smaller. But price of electricity is more or less same in the whole country here.
Don't tell me something about expensive electricity and saving money. Because on top of that, let's check affordable housing stats
Same! Set up a DIY home battery system and needed something to communicate with the inverter and battery over RS232, RS485 and bluetooth. Had an old Raspberry Pi-B with 512MB RAM lying around.
Running 3 python scripts as daemons would become a tad heavy and was a bit worried about serial timing. So used Codex to rewrite them in Go. Cross-compiled them, deployed the binaries and they're now running very comfortably on the pi. A few MB of ram per daemon. Making good use of an almost 15 year old device.
Battery prices are getting really low, if you're willing to do some DIY. Just received a 15kWh battery from China. A 'Humsienk'. Combined it with a GroWatt SPA3000TL-BL inverter.
Total price, 1600 euros. So close to the magical 100 euros per kWh. Driving it with some interesting combinations of Raspberry PI's and serial interfaces and custom written Go code, but it works... :)
Did the same, got a solar installer to fit panels on garage and a solis hybrid inverter. They fitted a CT clamp on my meter and a lora device on both sides for it to communicate with the inverter.
Then bought a 16kwh battery for ~£1500, installation was plugging in a positive, negative and ethernet cable and configuring the inverter to use the battery. (if my home insnurer is reading this, I had an electrician friend double check while helping with some other work)
Definitely recommended for anyone who likes tinkering, thousands cheaper than installer pricing.
UK considerations: must be at least signed off by an approved electrician ("Part P" regulations), and for any situations involving subsidy needs to be MCS approved as well. https://mcscertified.com/
Find an electrician who will inspect and sign off on your work. It's not illegal as licensed master electricians have mechanics do all the grunt work who are unlicensed. The electrician vouches for his employees work which legitimizes it. No different than you doing the work and having the electrician inspect, call out issues to fix, and inspect again until no issues are found and sign off.
Surely it only needs to be signed off if you intend to sell the property with them or sell excess back to the grid. If youre just using the batteries how is anyone going to know?
If the DIY work wasn't the cause for the fire it shouldn't matter, but I half-expect someone to inform me that US insurance companies can (legally) deny coverage for reasons unrelated to the accident.
Not so fast. Have you very carefully read the full small print of the insurance policy? Did you review that with a lawyer? Is incredible how different "normal" people vs. lawyers can understand a contract.
I'm pretty sure there is a clause, which states that you have to inform if you have and/or are not allowed to have fire loads, or anything that could cause a fire, or make it worse, or something along the lines in legalese. These formulations are always there because of people hoarding fuel in the basement, for example, or O2 Tank, or whatever. They are formulated in the most generic way possible to catch anything you do "wrong". Failing to follow such clauses, also when not explicitly stated, is dropping your obligations in the contract. And then there will be a clause that of course says, that not following the contract from your side, also exempts the company of paying.
Note also there are clauses that are very softly specified, like "use rooms for the intended purpose" which may be a problem if you store idk, paint in the garage, which may be flammable, in which case a fire in the garage will not be (at least fully) covered.
If is something does happen, and Li Batteries catching fire is not something unheard of, you will be in a world of suffering. Probably having no home, and having to pay damages to the neighbors. All to save what? 2k$... 5k$?
Theoretically a good choice, but where I live, just doesn't work. Either they just say "no thanks" or they will be more expensive than letting them do the whole job.
I got the "trick" recommended to do the things yourself, then call a certified guy, and say "look, I contracted a guy, I had no idea, he came did everything, but I got a bad vibe, I would like you check the whole installation". But it also does not really work, they will come with a contract, where you are enforced to contract them to correct any findings. And boy they will find things then...
It "may" not be permitted, but if you live in a collection of shacks in rural Colorado that were themselves -already- completely un-permitted then you might decide that it's best to just do the work yourself.
I do wish I could have a good, in-depth tutorial on how to set this up myself. Along with (pipe dream) an explanation of how it would interact with my local utility. I worry that due to some silly technicality, I won't be able to export to my local utility, or else I won't be able to run off-grid when there's an outage.
I will do a write-up in a couple of days. It's all relatively simple, you just have to expect terrible documentation and do a bit of reverse engineering and serial sniffing. I expected the battery to be complicated, but it turned out that the inverter was.
You'll encounter stuff like: manual says use RS485 port on Battery for GroWatt inverter → need to use CAN port on Battery. Meter Port (RS485 [serial] over RJ45) wiring on GroWatt is unknown (A: white orange / B: white blue, cross them over). Dinky RS485 serial → USB converter needs a 120ohm resistor between pins for line termination. Growatt meter port expects a SDM630 meter, not a DTSU666 (hardcoded), so vibe code another emulator. DIP switches for RS232 connection need to be both on the ON position (undocumented). CH340 USB→serial converter for RS232 does not work, but one with a Prolific chip does. Etc. etc. etc :)
Oh, and the biggest one... I was expecting to be able to just send a command, 'charge at 500watts', now... 'discharge at 2000watts'. But no. You have to emulate a power meter and the inverter will try to bring the net power to 0. Fun! :)
> Driving it with some interesting combinations of Raspberry PI's and serial interfaces and custom written Go code, but it works... :)
What protocol is it speaking? I've seen some of the more mainstream models call out that they use Modbus but all the cheap import models either might use Modbus or some custom protocol you have to reverse engineer or hope someone else did.
Yup, Growatt is the Chinese OEM that Base Power white labels to pretend it does US manufacturing. In fact this stuff is low quality. You need to be careful. There are gradations of quality at cell, pack, inverter, control levels. You will be crushed if you realize you AliExpressed your way to a home power "solution" only to have it fail young.
Feel you have more unknowns on the safety front? vs. the expensive off-the-shelf. [in the USA, it’d also be “fewer names to sue” in that unlikely tragedy of combustion in home, but no euro/kWh targets there]
LFP batteries are as likely to burn down your house as a stack of wood is. I'd be worried about the inverter or botched DIY wiring (especially not to spec torque on terminal connections and botched crimps leading to hot spots), but not about the batteries themselves. For a person who wants to save some money, but doesn't know how to work with electricity, the best move is probably to get cheap LFP cells from China, but have a professional install a BMS and the remainder of the solar system.
> especially not to spec torque on terminal connections and botched crimps leading to hot spots
This was indeed my greatest concern. However the battery came with pre-crimped very solid DC wires, and nice push connectors for the battery itself. The battery also has an integrated DC breaker (great!).
The system runs 3KW max, so I just added an additional breaker (with RCD integrated) in the conduit box. In NL this is something a DIY-home owner easily can do themselves :) (just use the right solid/flex stranded cabling for the connectors, etc...)
And further, my position has been that learning the correct methods, paying a lot of attention to details, and not being cheap with tools is -still- cheaper and probably more reliable than paying contractors. I have only used my hydraulic crimper for a pair of cables, but it was the correct tool and did good work.
I'm not interfacing with a grid, and there are already code issues with my places- I'd probably feel different if I could get insurance on my place.
Cheap chinese tooling and youtube (plus pretty good general literacy) go a long way in this world.
And FWIW, I live in the US west and am way more worried about fire coming from outside than from the batteries.
> LFP batteries are as likely to burn down your house as a stack of wood is.
LFP batteries are much safer than past chemistries, but this statement is way too broad.
High power batteries are always more dangerous than something like a stack of wood, because batteries will gladly dump their entire energy capacity very rapidly into a short.
Even if the battery itself [mostly] won't self-immolate, the entire installation can be a fire hazard.
On a tangent, I’m amazed at how bad most random crimps I see on the internet are. Also, the number of people who debate the use of solder on crimps without discussing potential issues with said solder is too high.
