Excellent development! I saw first Obsidian years ago but my main use case would have been for myself at work and I wasn't willing to battle the bureaucratic hoops at my job to try a product I wasn't sure I'd actually stick with long term (like my attempts with logseq). Ended up not even trying it on a personal level. Looking forward to seeing how it goes and who knows maybe I'll end up stick with it and battle to contribute some funds.
I recall reading about some of them looking into it but running into issues ensuring a "clean" recycled plastic supply at the scales they need. Can't seem to find the article in my history but there's a ton of varied results I'm seeing from searches talking about the idea of recycling plastic. Example: https://www2.afpm.org/forms/store/ProductFormPublic/sum-21-3...
I think one of the main issues was, at least in the US, chlorinated plastic (e.g. PVC) ends up in the bulk supply of used plastics through negligence/malice/whatever and even at a few percent ends up creating some pretty corrosive compounds which are difficult/expensive to remove before they damage the equipment.
I decided to set up a local instance yesterday with my 3070 TI 8GB and had similar success, about 10 seconds per image at the default settings. Like you I also opted for a different repo [0] which emphasized adding a GUI but I think also opts out of the watermark addition/other checks. Sounds like it reduces memory usage from what others have said. Had more trouble coming up with creative prompts then getting set up surprisingly (to me anyway).
I found it very easy to set up, too. I had a previous couple things I set up that were a lot harder to set up. Stable Diffusion has been dreamy. I'm already tempted to upgrade my setup to one of these with the GUIs, but I think if I wait just a bit longer, it's going to get even better. So I'm resisting the urge.
I've had good experiences with Home Designer [1]. Used it to mock up how I wanted my basement finished [2] so I could solicit quotes and ended up running around the house measuring rooms so I could model the rest of the house (for fun... didn't really serve a purpose).
Ended up liking it enough that my father decided to use it to design the home he wants to build. He even found a builder who uses the pro version of the software (Chief Architect) so my father could view / tweak the model.
Perhaps the biggest difference is DD-WRT will accept binary-blob drivers for some SOCs / Wi-Fi chips whereas Open-WRT won't. This is notably problematic for Broadcom powered devices where the result is often that Open-WRT cannot provide 5 Ghz and 2.4 Ghz is sometimes spotty.
It's specifically enabled for those enrolled in the full self driving beta (and only while it's enabled). As far as I know it's not yet made its way to those who just use autopilot which is what was used with that remarkably dangerous backseat stupidity.
I am in the FSD Beta queue but I have not gotten access to it yet!
I wonder if the more aggressive monitoring and alerts turn on when you enter the queue for FSD Beta as a way to monitor your alertness before granting entry into the Beta?!
Unless I'm misunderstanding their online shop (which annoyingly requires a login to view) shows replacement cables of 75 foot or 150 foot length (for $60 and $85 respectively). The gen 1 dish had a 100 foot cable that wasn't made to be (easily) user replaceable.
I just recently went through this myself. Bottom line up front: I ended up with two Belkin RT3200s for $100 a piece (which are just rebranded Linksys E8450) which I flashed OpenWRT onto. They're one of the few WiFi 6 routers that are supported by OpenWRT at this time). One as the main router (handled the DHCP and was connected to my modem) and the other as an access point. I probably would have gone with a PC Engines device like commenter nimbius suggested if the wait time wasn't so long.
Depending on your familiarity with networking (or willingness to learn) will really influence what recommendations you'll get. For example that linked HN thread the author said "I want something simple (no DIY, no OpenWRT), I want my privacy, and no PoE." Are you under the same constraints?
Perhaps you can also clarify a bit more about your use-case. You stated WiFi 6 is desirable but not a must-have. Do you mean WiFi 6E (i.e. 6gHz) or just 6 (i.e. a flavor of 5gHz oftentimes referred to as 802.11ax or just AX). What about other factors? You mentioned mesh or "beefy." Are you in a densely populated area where you're fighting over the airwaves with your neighbors? Are your walls all made of concrete where signal penetration is poor? Or perhaps you just have a lot of square footage to cover? The first two are probably better served by more access points rather than "beefy-ness."
> Things I’m observing from reviews and comments around the internet: Mesh isn’t ready and can have mixed performance on satellites.
Advantages of mesh: they are easier to setup than a DIY system. Disadvantage: your air-gapped mesh router is basically a glorified range extender and comes with the same fundamental limitation that it's got to communicate with the main unit through WiFi. I tested some Google home mesh routers for example and they topped out at ~300 Mbit/s even 6 feet apart (plus they required privacy concessions for more "advanced" features like setting up a guest network).
> ASUS has quality control and customer support issues, but if you’re lucky they can be good.
I'm afraid that seems to be a common theme among other brands as well.
> Ubiquiti sounds good or terrible depending on who you listen to.
Generally I found the consensus to be they at least used to be quite good, now it's debatable especially since you stated privacy as a concern (see many HN submissions about it, https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=21436356 for example).
I move a lot. I’ve been in big houses and small apartments the last decade off and on. That’s why mesh or beefy (think I can make that term stick?) doesn’t matter too much to me right now.
My most important devices are always hardwired, but I still have WiFi needs.
WiFi 6E would be best but not at the cost of great 2.4 and 5Ghz performance.
I’m not opposed to mucking with networking, I’m technical, but also I can’t do it all the time. I’ve got day jobs. I mostly want to spend a sufficient time setting it up and then mostly leaving it alone besides painless firmware updates.
Thanks for your answer. I’m going to give Ubiquiti another look despite the concerns.
+1 to Ubiquiti. Just don't get their consumer gear its completely different products, get the pro gear.
I move a lot too and own the security gateway (just a NAT/controller with one ethernet port in and one ethernet port out) and then have 2 ap in my apartment. We only really need one but my partner and i each owned an AP when we moved in together. We keep them next to one desks for optimal WFH performance, and one in living room for use there. Def overkill, but our current apartment has metal in walls so it's nice.
They have a great progressively expandable system, so it'll age with you. They support mesh for the AP or hardwired, so you can upgrade/reuse them as living situations/wire access changes.
At the end of it all you'll probably be happy with Ubiquiti. Pretty flexible spread of products and features that you could likely adapt to a change of living arrangements without major upheaval. For myself I wasn't quite willing to pay the price delta since I didn't need most of their feature set.
When I was looking a few months ago WiFi 6E seemed too new, e.g. higher costs for the (relatively) few supported devices.
> I’m not opposed to mucking with networking, I’m technical, but also I can’t do it all the time. I’ve got day jobs. I mostly want to spend a sufficient time setting it up and then mostly leaving it alone besides painless firmware updates.
I felt similarly. Spent a while on the setup but I've tried not to (have to) touch it since.
A bit of a complicated subject but the short answer is you're correct humidity does reduce the efficiency of air conditioning.
The reason why(/long answer) is that as it cools the air the humidity in the air (i.e. water vapor) will condense into liquid water. Water requires a fair amount of energy to be removed (known as latent heat) to make this change and none of that energy removed actually changes the temperature of the air (all of it goes into changing the phase of the water). Therefore a high humidity load results in a lot of the cooling potential getting "used" up removing humidity first.
Terrifying! At least the Sunbeam toaster in his video had a mechanism that requires the toast be removed before the cycle can start again (~11:25 in the video).
Thinking of all the possible ways something can fail and mitigating them can be difficult but I feel like leaving the toast in should have been an obvious one.
