It's not entirely true that regulators haven't plushed back: in the USA, there's a minimum amount of cream required before the vendor can call the product "ice cream".
The products in that category that have been puffed up with air (and don't meet this minimum) get sold as "dairy desserts".
(I don't work on the food industry, so I won't be shocked if I got details wrong.)
Which is exactly why McDonalds menus list "cones" and "sundaes". Not "ice cream cones". It's a frozen dairy dessert that is not legally ice cream. To be fair, McDonald's version is superior to any other fast food frozen dairy desserts that I've had.
The products in that category that have been puffed up with air (and don't meet this minimum) get sold as "dairy desserts".
(I don't work on the food industry, so I won't be shocked if I got details wrong.)